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RSM's 570SX SIKKY S13 Build & Restore
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rsm777
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Joined: 03 Jun 2010

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Location: AL

PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Moving on, its back to the interior as my install parts are coming in later this week of the build. The stock interior is kinda iffy with things like the visors being that tan/gray that is dirty/nasty, same as the rear view mirror, and the glove box was pretty gross as its that bluish gray and so its all getting dyed to match the rest of the interior. Simply buy some dupli-color (probably two cans worth) OEM Black Gloss Vinyl Dye spray and a vacuum with bristles or similar will help pull up the dirt and similar that's going to be stuck in the carpet (especially in the rear hatch panels). I forgot to take some of the before pictures, but basically we're turning the tan/gray/etc parts black and taking the back panels and "revitalizing" them back to a nice darker black (instead of a charcoal).

**I know it looks kinda tacky with the paint outlines under it, but trust me. A simple cleaning and spray (the glove box took two coats to really make it change from its gray to black) will really bring your interior back to life. Also the visors, rear view mirror, etc do not look tacky at all, they actually look factory black when installed (and taped up properly when painting). Duplicolor makes cool stuff. Its not perfect, but it really can make your car look "new" again for $5-9 worth of spray**

Glovebox After:


Visors Before/After (I just cut the mirror covers off as the mirror is covered by the ceiling when flipped up and they were annoying):


Rear Panels Before/After:




After Rearview Mirror:



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92 Fastback 570SX
02 Camaro LS1 + T56
LS6 Hot Cam, LS6 Ported Intake, Ported TB, SIKKY Mount Kit, SIKKY 1 7/8 Headers, SIKKY D/S, SIKKY O.F. Relocation Kit, Custom 4" CAI, Mishimoto Radiator/Shroud
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rsm777
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

More interior parts are in! NRG Type-R (ya i know..) seats! All I wanted was a nice black, durable, RECLINING, seat and sure enough NRG has these for around $150/each (including sliders/hardware)! A steal compared to what I find out there in terms of sparco/bride/etc. Is it a no name seat? Yes. Is it made out of really durable material? Yes it looks to be (its a cloth seat). Does it recline? Yes. So it should be a good daily driver pair of seats. That and both cost about the same as ONE sparco cheap sprint bucket. They are NOT made out of that pvc leather or whatever most of those cheap seats are made of that fade, stick to you, etc. Anyways, moving on, it won't win any JDM contests, but man they are comfy to sit in and still hold very well. The EVO style seats seem to be a little more aggressive bolster wise and still reclining if you want that route, but I just needed a comfy seat Wink. NRG also USED to make the brackets for 1/2 the price of sparco (and a little birdy told me they are all made in the same dang place) so I may end up drawing up my own seat brackets for future cars or similar as sparco is pricey Sad and they're "cheap" compared to others.

Ok to install these you will need grade 8 hardware. I got some from the local hardware store (3/8 x 1" grade 8 with matching washers and locknuts .. any longer and you'll touch the floor. Any shorter and its pretty fun to install Wink). These are just a HAIR too big/wide (almost would fit if you screwed them through the holes, but didn't want to booger up the threads or similar). Simply drill the holes out literally a fraction of a millimeter and you're good to go (the holes are basically oval for adjustment and you just need them round). Cut your holes in the carpet, make sure your bracket fits/installs easily WITHOUT the seat on it first as it will be much trickier once the seat is attached. Bolt in and you're ready to go. I just reused the factory hardware for the seat install (installed photos later). Also make sure to get a L and R side seat so the handle to recline is in the correct location (they should face outside).






Last edited by rsm777 on Tue Jul 13, 2010 2:34 pm; edited 2 times in total
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rsm777
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Joined: 03 Jun 2010

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Location: AL

PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 11:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok back to the performance parts again. Swap parts are showing up! Special thanks to Nick @ P1 Performance and SIKKY MFG for their awesome looking parts! I cannot wait to get these items installed! **P1 Performance is a wholesale only reseller... I have a business license that allows me to purchase through them. If you are looking for SIKKY parts email me or PM me and I will help you get them. I am not looking to make money, just trying to make sure my good friend at P1 gets the business as they deserve. Their service is top notch and they've helped me a TON (lol don't even ask how many emails he's answered for me). It'll also save ya some $$**

Awesome SIKKY Driveshaft NON-ABS:


SIKKY Race Oil Pan, Oil Filter Relocation Kit and Hardware:


SIKKY Master Cylinder Conversion Kit (comes with Speed Bleeder):


SIKKY Mount Kit Engine/Trans:


Oil pan Installed and Motor Mounts Installed on Engine:



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rsm777
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One picture I did not take and I am sorry for not taking this as this is important (well thanks Google, found something usable). When you go to install the master cylinder conversion, you will have to take the transmission apart. I don't know if someone makes a conversion kit that DOESN'T require this, but its seems inevitable. Basically, once the transmission is apart ***I found it MUCH easier, since I am alone on this, to take it apart at the back of the bellhousing - where the trans meets the bellhousing, not where the bellhousing meets the block. They are 15mm and were much easier to pop off than trying to get the bell housing off. This seemed to also save an extra 20-30lbs and this is HEAVY so it was much appreciated. With the pullout out of the car, I could easily pull it out and put it back in. Another 20-30lbs and it'd be extremely tough*** you take the slave cylinder off. It is 2 bolts and pops off easily. Its filthy and you should probably just replace it with a new one. I did not as it looks like its going to need a clutch and similar soon enough and I haven't had the funds or time to do this, so I will be doing this all at once later. ***UPDATED AFTER PHOTO TOO***



Now to pull off the top bleeder, it just took a 10mm wrench I believe (or 12) and unscrewed, very easy. The SIKKY bleeder screwed right in and was a piece of cake. Stick it out the top pre-cut hole in the transmission housing. The bottom is a little more iffy. I will verify this the right size punch to use, but the main SIKKY clutch master line comes with an OEM to -4AN conversion fitting. With the slave cylinder in a VICE or similar, use a 5/32 punch I believe and tap out the PIN holding the stock line in **if you aren't using a new one**. Once the pin pops out, the stock line will unplug. Plug in the new line and it will feel like its almost a good seal without the pin, but once you push it in and it seals in, pop the pin back in and you're good to go. Run this line out the bottom port. It will be all in the way when you're dropping it in, so PLEASE make sure not to let it get hung up on anything when dropping in the motor. I'll take some photos tonight and update this.




Last edited by rsm777 on Wed Jul 14, 2010 3:32 pm; edited 2 times in total
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rsm777
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 12:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok so out comes the old. There's a complete write up on how to pull the old engine on NICO, so I am not going to get too much into this. Its very easy and clears without trying. The only thing to note, is that if the car is on stock suspension like mine is, its going to raise up like 3-5" (a lot) when you lift the engine out, so chain the hoist TIGHT so you have plenty of lift distance left on the engine hoist as you're going to have to raise it an extra 3-5" up than you're thinking. Worse case, just have someone pullout the engine while you're lifting up the end of the transmission (its not heavy, especially on a hoist).

Engine coming out:


Now you have plenty of room. If you have a pressure washer or can borrow one, now is a perfect time to do this as you've probably got a TON of goop from the steering rack, oil pan, seals or something thats leaking and left black everywhere.



I sadly did not take an after, but i pressure washed it out and used engine de-greaser and similar to try and get as much out as I could. (i'll grab one tonight)

I am not keeping p/s, so I pulled all the lines, reservoir, etc. This is a much cleaner and simpler option IMO and even though some see it as a necessity. I am not racing the car or doing tight city driving so in a 2600lb car I am hoping I will be ok. I pulled the emissions junk and similar and the LS1 from the 01-02 f-body does not have EGR and similar. They ran a smaller cam profile I think to compensate. I pulled the stock clutch lines as well (and the damper), the firewall vibration damper, and other similar nonsense. I will be running A/C but I pulled all the lines and similar until later to make the install easier and cleaner (custom hardlines as theres no need to run lines around the firewall as the LS1 compressor is on the passenger side).

Also if you're wanting to run the LS1 without p/s it is a very simple option. Simply follow this example here (DONT FORGET TO USE THE 1/8 thick WASHER) - its about mid way down. An idler pulley, belt and a washer:

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-owners-newbie-tech/1281701-solution-ls1-no-power-steering.html

You should save a good bit of weight as well as the reservoir, lines, and the pump is probably ~15-20lbs.


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rsm777
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

NEW Plug wires are in. Yay. MSD seems to have the best OHM resistance reading for the price. They can be had cheap, so they are a great option as chances are your pullout has damaged wires or similar. (CREDIT FOR THIS CAN BE FOUND HERE: http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31657) ***ONE THING TO NOTE, AFTERMARKET != BETTER... READ AND CHECK BOTH OEM AND AFTERMARKET TO MAKE SURE YOU'RE NOT JUST DOING A COSMETIC UPGRADE AND PERFORMANCE DOWNGRADE***



I also put in a set of NGK TR55IX. I know its awful/difficult to put plugs in on an F-body or similar, so I bought the high $$$ stuff so they'd last a long time. Otherwise coppers or similar are fine.

Here comes some more fun. This is written out in the instructions, but thought I'd post this up. You have to basically knock about .5" - 1" in the marked area. (its between 4 and 6" above the pinch weld in the transmission tunnel). It was tiring, but easy to do. Get a decent sized sledge and go at it (not too big or you'll have no swing room). Also, as marked out in the instructions, you will have to cut 3 aluminum tabs off the trans... yah... if you're an idiot like myself you'll forget the air cutoff at work and have to do it by hand. Also if you're so pissed at it, working on tab 3, and it knows it and it breaks your last dang blade at 10pm you can normally knock the remainder off so don't panic lol...



That's all for now Smile I will have more tonight! Thanks!




Last edited by rsm777 on Wed Jul 14, 2010 4:14 pm; edited 4 times in total
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bprzybyl
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Location: Rochester, NY

PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great information! That P/S Delete info would be great for someone running a remote P/S Pump as well. Everything looks great, I love getting all the updates at this rate.



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1995 Nissan 240SX - 5.3L/4L60E Daily Driver

Daily Driver 5.3L/4L60E S14 Build Thread
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rsm777
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bprzybyl wrote:
Great information! That P/S Delete info would be great for someone running a remote P/S Pump as well. Everything looks great, I love getting all the updates at this rate.


Haha thank you!! Smile I am trying to consolidate the 3-4 weeks of work in 3-4 days of posting so there's no waiting Smile just lots pictures and reading. I am also trying to consolidate all the write-ups imaginable so that you can find everything for a complete swap in one spot.


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rsm777
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well sadly I was beaten again last night. Its just not something I can do myself I don't think. I've got a buddy to help me tonight finally. When trying to push it in and lower it at the same time, the jack would go sideways (as the trans had to be lifted up to get it to fit/level right) and everything would go crooked. This happened Monday night for about 3-4 hours and I called it quits. The best way to drop it in, like SIKKY suggested, is to think of it like a banana shape... high angle and gradually lower the front while jacking up the rear and pushing it in. I just can't do it all myself. Hardware is on the seats and that was about all I did for "little stuff" as my goal was to just get the engine/trans in... **also I was told to make mention of this, even though I would think its common sense. When drilling out the seat holes, DON'T overdrill them or you will have no material for the bolt head to sit flush to hold the seat in**

Also pictures of the finished harness and I forgot to take the urethane bumper off, it broke in half when I tried to just move it, so i don't know how much it was in the way, but o well.



You know you want to go in, you know you do Sad



Seat hardware (Photo purposes only, i know they are missing washers and the brackets are crooked Smile ):


The other big problem I think that's making this difficult is that the car isn't lowered. Everytime I get within an inch of it sliding in, it seems to be at a weird angle and similar, but the front end is lifted up a good 5" over when the engine/trans is in it... the closest I got was 1/2" from going in and that was with about 200lbs of weights sitting in the front of the car holding it down some Sad




Last edited by rsm777 on Mon Jul 26, 2010 12:04 pm; edited 2 times in total
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NoClassic
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drop the chassis down on the motor already bolted to the subframe.

I had mine in and out 4 or 5 times on my own using this method.


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trsilvias13
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 1:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice write up/process

I did up from up top - in and out like 4 times already. I once even did it myself (takes longer). have pry bars ready.

Also as a note :to install the slave, you could have removed where the housing bolt on to the motor not between the housing and the tranny.


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rsm777
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 1:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

NoClassic wrote:
Drop the chassis down on the motor already bolted to the subframe.

I had mine in and out 4 or 5 times on my own using this method.


This was my next move... Basically just pull the subframe and similar off all in one piece (disconnect the steering shaft?)? Kinda like a rolling front end or something? This is my first RWD car to do a motor pull like this, so I am just trying to make sure I understand this right... basically the front drivetrain comes off right? Wheels and all? Thanks for the tips.


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NoClassic
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I left the knuckles and suspension hanging by just unbolting the control arms.

Its alot easier to manage everything without the knuckles and shocks hanging off the subframe.

A couple small dollies make things really easy.



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rsm777
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 3:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lol wow, yeah that definitely looks easier than what I am trying to do, especially alone. Thank you, That looks easy smeasy now.


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NoClassic
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You may want to see if you can install the header before lowering the chassis as well. I know some wont clear doing it that way, but the sikky stuff may.


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