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RSM's 570SX SIKKY S13 Build & Restore
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rsm777
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Joined: 03 Jun 2010

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Location: AL

PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

NoClassic wrote:
You may want to see if you can install the header before lowering the chassis as well. I know some wont clear doing it that way, but the sikky stuff may.


Definitely. I would love to be able to do that all at once... I will post up pictures tonight of the engine IN .. one way or the other Razz thanks for all the help and tips!



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92 Fastback 570SX
02 Camaro LS1 + T56
LS6 Hot Cam, LS6 Ported Intake, Ported TB, SIKKY Mount Kit, SIKKY 1 7/8 Headers, SIKKY D/S, SIKKY O.F. Relocation Kit, Custom 4" CAI, Mishimoto Radiator/Shroud
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rsm777
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, so if you're trying to install this from the top, here is how you do it in 5 minutes lol... I tried with my buddy for about an hour and a half the "right way", but for whatever reason the tunnel is hitting the bellhousing just enough to not get it in place even though I've banged out the tunnel twice as much as needed. So I don't know if the hatches are different or if the s13 is different or what, but it just wouldn't go no matter what we did, what we moved, etc. I was going to try the subframe deal as mentioned and drop the chassis on it from the top, but since I already left the engine/trans sitting in place from the night before I thought I'd try something that was a mix of the two and sure enough, it worked and only took a few minutes to do. Basically what you need to do is, start at a high angle, and gradually lower the front the engine, while raising the transmission up (already said this), now the trick to make this stupid easy is to unbolt the subframe completely (with the car on the ground) and leave the other components in place. This makes the subframe drop about 4"s while everything else just moves out a little. Needless to say, the engine popped right in and on its mounts no problem. All you have to do to get the subframe back up is, with the studs sticking through where they're going (through the oem nissan engine mount), tighten both nuts up 3-5 threads (so they don't strip out or booger up threads or similar) and use the engine hoist thats attached to the engine and TADA, you raise the engine up and it pulls the subframe up for you. Now then, tighten up subframe bolts some (5-8 threads or so on all 4 main nuts) and you're done. You didn't fight your car for 4-5 hrs a night for 3 nights and its in place no problem! Not the prettiest picture, but a better one will come later Smile. Anyways, tonight will be time to install the seats, heater lines and other misc stuff. **PS - there is nothing wrong with the mount kit, once it place, everything fit perfectly, there's tunnel clearance, etc. It just was being extremely difficult when going in... I don't know if we were doing something wrong or what, but its over and done and that's what matters Very Happy**



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TurboGoKart
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 12:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My Harbor Freight engine leveler made my life waaaay easier when I was fabbing up my mounts, and putting in and pulling out the motor a few times.



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scotheocelot
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So does the hood shut?


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rh4motorsports
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah the times I did the swap for guys I always drop the subframe, it's just that much easier lol. I'm fortunate enough to have a lift but even using a jack to hold/drop the subframe and drop the engine in the bay with the cherry picker is a good way to do it. Sweet progress it'll get down before you know it


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rsm777
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
My Harbor Freight engine leveler made my life waaaay easier when I was fabbing up my mounts, and putting in and pulling out the motor a few times.


Definitely. There was just something up with the tunnel or I wasn't at the right angle or something... It kept hitting the tunnel even with it banged out 2-3x more than needed.

Quote:
So does the hood shut?


I would like to hope so... I couldn't imagine someone spending the money to CAD draw a set of mounts if it won't even let the hood shut. Guess we'll find out lol

rh4motorsports wrote:
Yeah the times I did the swap for guys I always drop the subframe, it's just that much easier lol. I'm fortunate enough to have a lift but even using a jack to hold/drop the subframe and drop the engine in the bay with the cherry picker is a good way to do it. Sweet progress it'll get down before you know it


Yeah if you leave everything else hooked up, it only drops like 3", but makes everything infinitely easier (headers, mounts, etc).

Was on vacation so I apologize for not answering PMs sooner. It should be finished early this week. Thanks again for the comments and PM's. I should have more useful LS1 info soon as I finish it up. (Heater lines, Intake piece part#s, A/C line info, etc).


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rsm777
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 12:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got really far with the car tonight. Headers are in, trans mount is in, driveshaft in, radiator in, shroud in, intake done... lots of pictures and similar coming tomorrow or wed. Should start up tomorrow Very Happy I'll shoot some vids and youtube em. Thanks again everyone for the help and support!


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rsm777
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Should start tonight finally. Messed up by putting in the headers monday without doing the starter, so that took up a lot of last night, but other than finishing the oil relocation, some minor wiring, and figuring out some plugs, the AIR system and similar, it should be ready to rock Very Happy. I'll get it finished and post the rest of the photos/info up then. Steam vent drops right into the pulling side of the heater hose and oreilly sells a 5/8x3/8x5/8 $3 adapter that worked perfectly. So that was much easier than planned (welding up a bung on the raidator).


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TurboGoKart
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sweet! I didn't realize that steam vent was a 3/8.


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rsm777
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 1:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TurboGoKart wrote:
Sweet! I didn't realize that steam vent was a 3/8.


Its not lol, its a 5/16 as I found tues night (I keep wasting crap buying then measuring instead of vice versa). It will work with that adapter though no problem (stretch it on), but its a $3 piece and simple solution. Finish wiring tonight and I will post up the last of the info on the heater hoses and similar (they were more or less a disaster as they are crammed up in the back. It'll work just looks awful). I couldn't find a 5/8 x 5/16 x 5/8 either Sad, but it'll work with the other. Just look in the oreilly HELP section.


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rsm777
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2010 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It runs and drives! New pictures / videos coming soon along with the last of the build/writeup!


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rouseyss/sc
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2010 10:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sweet man cant wait to see the finished product


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rsm777
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

scotheocelot wrote:
So does the hood shut?


I am going to pick up the hood next week. The engine fits well enough to where I can put an NRG front strut bar though and still have an inch of clearance! Very happy about that Smile ... I know the problem area looks to be the TB clearance, but I will report back on that and everything else shortly. I was wearing out my welcome at the friend's shop space I was using so I had to finish it up this week one way or the other and be out before this weekend. So I've gotta back track and finish the write up with what I've got for photos.

Again I can't reiterate how good these parts fit... SIKKY's kit IS A PNP kit. No extra cutting, no extra welding, sending parts back, etc. The only issue I had was the steering collar fitting the headers (1 7/8 ). I had to shave the edge of the collar and the bolt some, but the header literally had no where to go. Any closer to the block and I'd think it'd be a problem, and the steering can't move left/right as it is all bolted in place lol. The 1 3/4 headers i assume would have been perfect fit wise (as it was only touching by maybe 1/16 or 1/8" but it was enough to where I was afraid of digging a hole through the header (another words it wouldn't just "clearance" itself).

One other problem that seems to just be a tight fit problem (as the engine/trans/everything sits straight, level and great) is that the backup lights plug is literally 1/2" from the trans wall (yet the plug seems to stick out an easy inch or more). I am going to just have to cut the plastic off around the male side of the plug (that connects to the tunnel) and wire it up manually or something, but if you were to move the trans left any, it wouldn't sit square so im pretty sure this is an issue period. This was also why I think I was having so many issues installing it as the plug (when I left the harness installed on the first two attempts) broke off or was badly warped on the harness side and was pushing the whole engine/trans to the left as I was trying to just line up the mounts (since it was suspended in air from the hoist). Anyways, just another heads up to those doing this install.


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rsm777
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright, have about 500 miles on the car and it runs GREAT! This is easily one of the best/favorite swaps I've done or seen in these cars. Car is ultra reliable (very few wires to deal with, ZERO overheating issues, no smoke, no idle issues, nothing!), great on the gas (I am getting my dakota digital in today/tomorrow so I'll actually track fuel economy here soon), but I've only filled up partial 3 times... I am pumped. I am guessing around 24-26mpg with me testing everything out as im driving Wink. Hood is on and fits no problem. I took that little insulation piece out as it was just nasty and falling to pieces, but nothing seems to touch (and nothing close enough to where that 1mm of insulation or whatever would have touched). The strut bar has an inch of extra room between the plenum and itself (so upgrades are probably a go for a 102/102 later). I am going to finish relocating the battery to the trunk and finish hiding all the wires and post up some final finished pictures and finish the build thread. Just wanted to update Very Happy

PS - there is no more camo, although the flat black could use a little tlc Wink lol


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misfitrps13
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 11:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that's cool. Can't wait to see your finished pics!


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