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RSM's 570SX SIKKY S13 Build & Restore
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RPS13
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

^agreed get wheels with a proper offset like +15 and they wont rub or a 20-30mm spacer with longer studs



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"Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races" - Carroll Shelby

1990 Nissan 240sx hatch - pearl white
Full Daft Innovations swap kit
2000 LS1..Tick stage 2 T56..MS3 cam..Ported 853 heads..Daft 1 3/4" longtubes..LS6 intake..Ported TB..SLP UD pulley..Katech rod bolts..BEAST!!
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jhankinson
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I assumed he knew the offset was the issue...because he was saying the coilover was the bitch to install. But wouldnt even a +30 be ok. My 350z rims are 8x18 +30 fronts and they clear with like 1/2"



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rsm777
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's whats weird though, after getting mad with the kid about the offset (went wrongly on a tyrant as there have been a LOT of things janky or wrong on this car so far), sure enough that IS what tire rack offers (18 x 7.5 +45) for these cars... so surely he just didn't know any better and ordered what was recommended to him. Those heavy 18" advanti speeds are coming off anyways and 17" RPF1s are going on. I had some 17 x 9.5 +18s left over going on the rear and some 17 x 9 +22s (all they had available for the fronts until oct) for the front on order. According to my tyrestretch program, it should push the front wheel out 4mm more (from the inside) and another ~40mm on the outside, but should give me exactly the clearance I need to the coilover (as it only touches by a few mm).

One thing I found interesting... I was talking with scotheocelot about Q45 mounting points changing on the coilovers if you swap the rear hubs and look at this:



Notice how on the front struts of the JIC, that the top bolt is slotted? The one I received was a straight hole, no play, but had a TON of bracket in front of it (more than normal looking like it was supposed to be slotted but wasnt. I didn't buy nice JICs or something, so it may just have MFG error, but since the angel exponentially makes the movement you make down there wider up top, I'd bet with that adjustment I could make it clear by just moving the slotted bolt up top out, moving the coilover away from the wheel...



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92 Fastback 570SX
02 Camaro LS1 + T56
LS6 Hot Cam, LS6 Ported Intake, Ported TB, SIKKY Mount Kit, SIKKY 1 7/8 Headers, SIKKY D/S, SIKKY O.F. Relocation Kit, Custom 4" CAI, Mishimoto Radiator/Shroud
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rsm777
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jhankinson wrote:
Well I assumed he knew the offset was the issue...because he was saying the coilover was the bitch to install. But wouldnt even a +30 be ok. My 350z rims are 8x18 +30 fronts and they clear with like 1/2"


Keep in mind you're losing on the wheel size, but gaining on the offset...

18 x 7.5 +45 to a 18 x 8 +30 will net you an extra 8.7MM of clearance to the strut on the inside. I only really look to need 3-5mm to clear Sad


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jhankinson
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thats what I am saying. You dont have to go so drastic as a +15 offset wheel as suggested earlier. If all you need is 3-5mm just get a cheapo spacer and it will clear


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RPS13
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jhankinson wrote:
thats what I am saying. You dont have to go so drastic as a +15 offset wheel as suggested earlier. If all you need is 3-5mm just get a cheapo spacer and it will clear


if you just want it to fit yes, but it will look bad IMO


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trsilvias13
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JIC coilover with slots are a MFG error, the coilover is suppose to come with a spacer/bracket that fits in there. Lots of older s13 coilover comes like that. Not really sure why. It does allow for more camber adjustment with the spacer/bracket though.


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rsm777
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 10:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

trsilvias13 wrote:
JIC coilover with slots are a MFG error, the coilover is suppose to come with a spacer/bracket that fits in there. Lots of older s13 coilover comes like that. Not really sure why. It does allow for more camber adjustment with the spacer/bracket though.


Well then maybe I am wrong Confused ... Do you know anyone who sells the spacer/bracket by itself?

PS - check the image name... these aren't 240sx coilovers, just exactly the same style... So ignore the slotted hole comment.




Last edited by rsm777 on Fri Sep 03, 2010 10:42 am; edited 1 time in total
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rsm777
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TADA... http://www.meganracing.com/product_detail.asp?prodid=966&catid=56

Sad... another $100 down the drain... then again somehow it says it won't work with any other manufacturer... yay. *sigh*

NM, I am going to just fab up my own extensions/brackets... moral of the story? Don't buy cheap coilovers lol... granted the factory teardrop wheels fit (MMs from rubbing on the suspension...), but not a whole lot else will unless you're going extreme offsets (even the +22 I have coming in will be 5-8mm too far in still and require spacers)... o well, I will update shortly. I am putting some more pictures up now.


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rsm777
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK back to the build and its final steps

Coolant System:

Basically just get the Mishimoto KA style radiator with the dual fan shroud kit. They are VERY reasonable and my temps stay stupidly cold for being a 70-90 degree day (when cruising it'll be in the 185-190 range), after hard pulling it can raise to 205, then drop back down to where it was... works very well. Install is as easy as you'd think. Unbolt the top brackets (there should be no coolant and similar in the car as this is a complete engine swap), unplug all the hoses and similar, pull out the old and put in the new radiator. Follow this thread:

http://www.silviav8forums.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=680&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15

At the very bottom there are 2 hoses and a reducer. You will need TWO REDUCERS one for the top and bottom port. For whatever reason he didn't need but one, but you will need two. The top hose just needs minor trimming to fit on without crimping. The bottom hose you just set up to the bottom ports... you'll see exactly where to cut it (almost in half). The LS sides fit perfect, the Mishimoto sides need the reducer sleeve. Slide them in and you're done, very easy. The shroud bolts to the radiator and you wire up your fans.

Reducer inside hose... fits perfect, no leaks.

Top Hose/Steam Vent


Front shot of radiator, no condenser


STEAM VENT and HEATER HOSES

This is quiet easy as well. I will take better photos of the rear (coming off the firewall), but its very straight forward. You will need a few 5/8 90s and a 3/4 x 5/8 hose adapter and 5/8 hose adapter. Here are the two hoses you will need to run the heater hoses to the back of the car (pre-formed):

Gates #: (3/4 PREFORMED 90 with long section to reach back of car)
Gates #: (5/8 PREFORMED 90 with long section to reach back of car)

Both can be ordered/found at oreillys in 12" 24" 48" long straight sections. You will run the 3/4" off the one port (LS1 is 3/4" out port I believe and 5/8" in) and the 5/8" 90 preformed off the other. Run the hoses to the back. The 90s are obvious and you connect the hoses together using your 5/8" straight adapter and 3/4 to 5/8" adapter for the other hose. Oreilly also sells, for $3 a 5/8 x 3/8 x 5/8 plastic hose adapter. This is what you will use in order to run your steam vent and connect it to the 5/8 return line to the LS1 pump. Your Steam Vent Hose is 5/16... 3/8 HOSE will be TOO BIG... however you can use 5/16 hose from the steam vent port and connect it to the 3/8 fitting... it will fit and I couldn't find another adapter (such as 5/8 x 5/16 x 5/8.). Buy clamps and similar. I will post up all the pictures and part #s here shortly.


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rsm777
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Recent shots of the car in non-camo, but still in 4x4 mode lol



Engine bay... still in need of some serious cleanage/wire/hose/etc tuckage


Exhaust, Dual 3" with X pipe. Aluminized steel, Magnaflow 3" in/out offset mufflers and magna flow 3" x 3" Tru-Flow Xpipe


Copied this guy's gorgeous work (just didn't use SS):




Last edited by rsm777 on Fri Sep 03, 2010 5:17 pm; edited 1 time in total
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rsm777
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

NEW WHEELS - ENKEI RPF1s - 17 x 9 +22 Fronts / 17 x 9.5 +18 Rears


**More photos coming**

5 Lug Conversion (New Hubs / New SE Rotors / New SE Pads / New SS Lines / DOT4 Racing Blue ATE Fluid):

SIKKY MASTER CYLINDER KIT (Comes with adapter, Lines and Speed Bleeder... route the line around and under the brake booster... theres a nice path for it to follow without coming close to the header)



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rsm777
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rear Interior Shots with NRG Rear Strut Bar Brace (A mess right now, but will come together nicely... also the redyed panels come out as black/match the new carpet that went in)



Rear Suspension coming out (R/L) Luckily the boot held up nicely LOL



New coilovers going in:


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Geniiimrduece
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote



wow am i glad you posted that! i was going to get some mufflers like that. that hangs waaayyyyy to low!


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NoClassic
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The guys over on Hybrid-Z have been running muffler sets like that for some time in their swaps. Many end up changing the trunk floor to push them up into the body some.

I dont see why you would run case type mufflers if you have a setup like that. Two cylinders could be package much easier.


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